Authenticity Guide

The Citizens Guard

Company A, Second Wisconsin

Volunteer Infantry Association, Inc.

Introduction This is a companion to our Suggested Uniform & Equipage List. Based on research by our membership, respected Civil War historians & museum curators, it also uses information available in uniform & equipment evaluation periodicals such as The Watchdog. All information complies with the Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Association, Inc. Handbook.

Our Impression

Our primary portrayal is an 1863 campaign impression of The Citizens Guard, Company A, 2d Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment. We also portray campaign impressions of The Citizens Guard during 1862, and from January 1- June 28, 1864. Occasionally, we will even depict the re-enlisted veterans and draftees of Company A as the Independent Battalion, Wisconsin Volunteers (June 11-November 30, 1864) and Companies G & H of the Sixth Wisconsin Veteran Volunteer Infantry (November 30, 1864-July 16, 1865).

We believe our uniforms & equipage should reflect the rigors of campaigning. After research (and extensive experience carrying gear on marches), our kits should contain only those items absolutely imperative for a soldier on an active campaign. We also believe that shelter halves or just the dependable rubber blanket are acceptable means of campaigning. We generally promote wearing knapsacks or blanket rolls when appropriate.

Our members stress the proper wear and use of accouterments. All canteens and haversacks ride near the small of the back and not the bottom of seat. We make proper adjustments to these items by cutting and re-sewing the straps, always using correct thread. Haversacks should only hold those items of your mess gear (tin cup, utensils, & plate) and your rations. They should not be the repository for your personal items or so called “haversack stuffers.”

The waist belt should be worn at the navel, not below it, or what is called the natural waist. The cartridge box belt should be shortened so the top of the cartridge box is no lower than the bottom of the waistbelt. It is also acceptable to place the waist belt through the loops of the cartridge box, and shorten the cartridge box belt accordingly.

During reenacting, as during the war itself, it is sometimes the smaller or little things that make a unit truly distinctive. Accordingly, we are working to have all visible buttonholes correctly sewn by hand. We keep our hair length short, with no flowing locks below a shirt collar. If a member needs vision correction, period spectacles or contact lenses are worn. Modern eyeglasses, wristwatches, and items of “this century” are just not worn. We make allowances for medications and other reasonable circumstances, but we strive for a perfect impression.

In Conclusion...

You will find that Company A members believe a top-notch kit is no good unless it is paired with a positive attitude towards an accurate portrayal. To get to that point, we help one another along the way. We realize we are soldiers of varying means, but that does not stop us from working at our impression. This not only makes us one of the finest units on the field, but a unit with the highest camaraderie. We care about out impression, and about each other, and it shows!

Uniform & Equipage Standards for the Enlisted

Foot Soldier

Note: For visual reference only, we have listed the page numbers in Time-Life Books, Echoes of Glory: Volume 2 - Arms & Equipment of the Union, that correspond with most items covered in our Uniform & Equipage Standards. The Echoes of Glory book set can be had at most popular bookstores and libraries. At the end of each description, we will list the picture reference in the following manner: (EOG/US/page #).

Fatigue Blouse (or Sack coat):

A bit of history. The fatigue blouse is seen among 2d Wisconsin members as early as the fall of 1861. It became the coat of choice by the regiment. The regiment continued to primarily wear the fatigue blouse until their three-year term of service expired on June 28, 1864. Veterans who decided to re-enlist and new draftees continued to wear the fatigue blouse until the end of the war as members of the Independent Battalion, Wisconsin Volunteers (June 11-November 30, 1864) and Companies G & H of the Sixth Wisconsin Veteran Volunteer Infantry (November 30, 1864-July 16, 1865).

Our standards. The Citizens Guard prefers that you purchase a fatigue blouse before your uniform (or frock) coat. The fatigue blouse’s basic features include a indigo dyed (a rich dark blue with a greenish tinge) wool flannel with a diagonal weave, a kidney shaped or square corner interior pocket, four 3/4 inch general service eagle buttons, small cuff vents, and a falling collar.

Our fatigue blouses are either lined or unlined, but lined fatigue blouses (which were in the majority) are preferred. Wool flannel lining can be tan, gray, brown, or blue with corresponding cotton muslin sleeve lining.

Unlined coats should have hand flat felled seams.

All buttonholes shall be all hand sewn using blue, black, or logwood faded (brown) linen or cotton thread. We have authentic instructions, and can also provide assistance for the “sewing challenged” among you!

Approved styles include Schuykill Arsenal Pattern (entirely hand sewn), J.T. Martin contract pattern & other documented arsenal and contract patterns.

If possible, we try to stick with the four standard sizes of the Federal Army during the war. These were: Size 1 = 36 inch chest, Size 2 = 38 inch chest, Size 3 = 40 inch chest, and size 4 = 42 inch chest. (EOG/US/125)

Uniform Coat (Frock Coat):

A bit of history. The 2d Wisconsin had their initial uniform coat issue in October of 1861. They primarily used the uniform coat through the Spring of 1862, at which time many in the regiment chose to wear the more comfortable fatigue blouse. The regiment continued this practice until the expiration of their three-year term of service on June 28, 1864.

While the soldiers generally preferred the fatigue blouse, all soldiers in the Iron Brigade were required to have in their possession a uniform coat by the order of Brigadier General Solomon Meredith on April 8, 1863. Paraphrasing our pard Michael Thorson, most soldiers complied to this order by leaving their uniform coats on the regimental baggage wagons, carrying their uniform coats in their knapsacks, or simply discarding them (“Portraying the 2nd Wisconsin”).

Our standards. The coats basic features include indigo dyed wool flannel with a diagonal weave, a standing collar, skirt with two rear pockets, 1/4 inch padded black or brown polished cotton chest lining, cotton muslin sleeve lining, saxony blue/sky blue (not baby blue) welting on collar, cuffs, and a vertical welt along the cuff split.

Eyes and hooks should be attached at the collar and corners of the skirt. There is no internal pocket in this coat, and there is no lining in the back of the coat body or the skirt.

Buttonholes shall be all hand sewn using blue, black, or logwood faded (brown) linen or cotton thread. Uniform coats must have nine 3/4 inch general service eagle buttons on body front, two 3/4 inch general service eagle buttons in back (above the skirt tails), and two 5/8 inch general service eagle buttons on each functional cuff.

All documented arsenal and contract patterns of correct construction are acceptable.

Trowsers (Foot Pattern):

A bit of history. The 2d Wisconsin’s initial Federal trowser issue occurred during the first week of October 1861. These trowsers were of dark blue wool, complying with U.S. Army Regulations up to that time.

By December of 1861, General Order No. 108 changed the color of the enlisted trowsers to sky blue. According to expert historian Howard Michael Madaus, the 2d Wisconsin was issued dark blue trowsers up to its last requisition of August 13, 1862 (“Appendix III” 322). Starting in the fall of 1862, these dark blue trowsers were gradually replaced by the standard sky blue kersey issue.

By the Spring of 1863, well before the battle of Gettysburg, the regiment was nearly all supplied with sky blue kersey trowsers.

Our standards. The Citizens Guard requires all members to first purchase their sky blue kersey issue trowsers. After other initial items, you can than purchase dark blue trowsers.

Some basic features include a greenish cast sky blue kersey wool with a diagonal weave, correct rise of trowsers in the seat (back yoke), right side watch pocket, narrow tapered waistband, four or six stamped paper backed tin suspender buttons, five small paper back tin fly buttons, side seam pockets, correct overlapping cuff vents with internal cuff facings, correct fly panels and facings, etc.

Buttonholes and tieback grommet holes should be hand sewn with dark blue or logwood-dyed cotton or linen thread.

Approved styles include Schuykill Arsenal pattern (entirely hand sewn), J.T. Martin contract pattern, William Deering contract pattern & other documented arsenal and contract patterns.

If possible, we once again recommend sticking to the four standard sizes of the Federal Army during the war. These were: Size 1 = 32 inch waist x 31 inch inseam, Size 2 = 34 inch waist x 32 inch inseam, Size 3 = 36 inch waist x 33 inch inseam, and size 4 = 38 inch waist x 34 inch inseam. (EOG/US/121, 123, 127)

U.S. Pattern 1858 Dress Hat (Hardee Hat):

A bit of history. The famed black hat was first issued to the 2d Wisconsin during the first week of October, 1861. They were constantly resupplied with the U.S. pattern 1858 dress hat throughout the war. This hat was worn with pride, and made the Iron Brigade a distinctive unit within the Army of the Potomac.

Outdoor photographic evidence of the 2d Wisconsin in May of 1862 depicts the “Badgers” wearing their dress hats with both sides of the brim down, or pinned up on the left side with a stamped brass eagle. Research conducted by Howard Michael Madaus allows us to read the contents of a 2d Wisconsin quartermaster report from the National Archives, Entry 4381, Record Group No. 393, Pt. II. This requisition form is dated July 11, 1862, “...11 hats complete: 70 eagles, 50 bugles, 40 feathers, 40 letters ‘C,’ and 60 figures ’2’ ” (qtd. in Appendix III, “The Uniform of the Iron Brigade at Gettysburg” 339).

With the rigors of campaigning, the 2d Wisconsin soldiers obviously lost or removed the eagle plates, ostrich plumes, enlisted sky blue infantry hat cords, company letters, and regimental numerals on a continual basis. In April of 1863, the soldiers of the 2d Wisconsin were ordered to wear die cut, worsted wool corps badges on their dress hats. These were positioned generally underneath the regimental brass numeral of each soldier’s dress hat. The existing dress hat of Sergeant Philander B. Wright (located at the Wisconsin Veterans Museum), Company C, 2d Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment confirms this corps badge positioning. It has the 1 7/8 inch, red worsted wool disk sewn into the front crown of the dress hat, with the regimental brass ‘2’ inserted directly on top of the corps badge.

By the battle of Gettysburg, hat ornamentation within the 2d Wisconsin was gradually on the decline. Corps badges were definitely in use, with lessor degrees of regimental numerals & company letters. Some soldiers still used the stamped brass eagle to pin the hat up at their discretion.

As one might assume, the degree of dress hat ornamentation decreased in requisition from early, to mid, to late war.

Our standards. Made of black rabbit or wool felt, with a 2.5 inch black leather sweatband or a late war maroon leather sweatband, the hat has a 3 inch brim, 5.5 inch crown height, has double row brim stitching at 4 stitches per inch, a black silk grosgrain ribbon surrounding the base of the crown, and a black oilcloth or paper crown label.

Since we portray Company A during active campaigning, we prefer minimal hat ornamentation. Corps badges may only be worn during a post April of 1863 impression. You may also leave your black hat undecorated as well! (EOG/US/120)

U.S. Pattern Jefferson Bootees (Shoes):

Our standards. Black dyed, semi rough out leather, squared front, one inch heels, four sets of shoelace holes with one in the vamp, accompanied with leather shoelaces. Leather soles can be either pegged or sewn. Heel rims, inlet heel rims, and hobnails are all acceptable. For further information on U.S. pattern Jefferson Bootees, please consult Michael R. Cunningham’s article, “Federal Issue Jefferson Bootees-Part 1,” contained in Volume 7, No. 2 issue of The Watchdog. (EOG/US/191)

Civilian Shirt:

Our standards. Must be of period fabric and construction. The body of the shirt may be either hand or machine stitched, but entirely hand sewn civilian shirts (which were more common) are preferred. All buttons & buttonholes shall be entirely sewn by hand. Hand felled seams helped to prevent fraying, and was another very common sewing detail found in civilian shirts. Look for two to three colored woven shirt patterns such as small plaids, checks, & stripes. The woven shirt patterns should be the same on the reverse side of the shirting fabric. Civilian shirt fabrics should be of 100% cotton. Look for small folding or banded collars, and three or four button plackets. Civilian shirts can have square gussets as popular in the 1850’s, or the rounded sleeves, which became stylish during the 1860’s.

Correct buttons were comprised of bone, shell, china, milk glass, hard rubber, or wood in two or four hole styles. Small size buttons ranging from 3/8 of an inch to 1/2 of an inch in diameter are preferred. According to Robert A. Braun, four hole style buttons should be sewn on “....such that the thread forms an “X” between the button holes” (“Low-Cost Improvements for your Uniform and Equipage”). (EOG/US/126)

Federal Issue Shirt:

Our standards. Made of domet wool flannel, completely hand sewn, incorporating a rectangular body with square gussets, produced in one size, and delivered in bales. In Stephen Osman’s article, “The Federal Issue Shirt,” he describes the basic features of an existing issue shirt located at the Danish Army Museum in Copenhagen. “It is off white or cream-colored flannel (wool on a cotton warp) with a reinforced slit front opening, a squared collar closed by a single stamped sheet iron button, tapered sleeves with internally faced cuffs formed as part of the sleeve and closed by single buttons, a reinforcing strap across the top of the shoulder, and very full cut in the body” (4-5).

Also acceptable are the gray wool flannel contract variant issue shirts. Paraphrasing our pard William Brewster in his article, “The Case for the Contract Variant Issue Shirt,” the basic features of this shirt include: a three-button placket, no sleeve gussets, machine-sewn body, and the use of stamped tin buttons (6-7).

Since all soldiers were allotted three issue shirts per year, we know that the men of the 2d Wisconsin wore these warm-clothing articles. Citizen Guard members should strive to at least carry an issue shirt in their knapsack if they can not bear to wear one. (EOG/US/126)

Drawers:

Our standards. Either Federal Issue pattern or civilian patterns acceptable. Federal issue drawers should be made of cotton canton flannel, with cotton tape ties in the rear and the ankles. Hand sewn paperback tin buttons, buttonholes, and tieback grommet holes. These should wear high on the waist. (EOG/US/127)

Civilian drawers should be made of fabrics such as cotton catton flannel, cotton osnaburg, or linen. Other features include hand-sewn buttonholes, buttons, and tieback grommet holes. Buttons may be bone, china, or other documented compositions. Civilian drawers should also ride rather high on the waist.

We highly recommend all members have at least one pair of drawers.

Socks:

Our standards. Either wool or cotton, hand knitted or period machine construction, with period tops and side seams, available in varying lengths. Stick to dull colors such as gray, brown, cream, blue, dark green, tan , or dark red.

Suspenders:

Our standards. Must be of documented style and construction. Since the Federal Army did not issue these, soldiers had to either purchase a pair from a merchant, have them sent from home, or simply went without them. They were made out of cotton drill or linen, with differing degrees of sophistication. Common styles ranged from simple straps with hand-sewn buttonholes (poorboys), to sewn straps with two or three tined brass adjustments & leather ends on each side.

Do not go out and purchase a cheap sutler pair of suspenders! They are not correct at all. Stick to the merchants in the Suggested Uniform & Equipage List and you will do fine.

Spectacles:

Our standards. For those who need vision correction, you must either purchase a set of period eyeglasses filled with your prescription, wear contact lenses, or go with out any. This is not negotiable.

Period spectacles of the mid 19th century had features such as oval or rectangular frames, arch or crank bridges, and straight or sliding temple pieces with a small teardrop final. Frames were commonly made out of brass, silver, or gold. Lenses were obviously made out of glass. For more information on spectacles, please consult Nicky Hughes’ article, “A Closer Look,” Volume 3, No. 4 issue of The Watchdog.

Cartridge Box:

Our standards. U.S. Pattern of 1855, 1857, & 1861 .58 caliber cartridge boxes are all acceptable. Cartridge boxes should be sewn by hand using waxed linen thread, comprised of tanned leather, dyed black, with tins, and cartridge box plate attached with a small piece of leather. (EOG/US/199, 202)

Cartridge Box Belt (Sling):

Our standards. Made of bridle leather, dyed black, 2.25 inches wide, and 55.5 inches long clear of billets. Billets (two narrow four hole adjustment strips) should be 4.25 inches in length at each end of the belt. The total length of the cartridge box belt is 64 inches. The cartridge box belt should be shortened so the top of the cartridge box is no lower than the bottom of the waistbelt. The round eagle cartridge box belt plate (breastplate) should be attached using a small piece of leather.

U.S. Pattern 1856 Waistbelt:

Our standards. Made of bridle leather, dyed black, 1.9 inches wide, 38.5 inches long with brass belt keeper, and lead backed pattern 1839 belt plate attached. (EOG/US/198-199, 202)

U.S. Pattern 1850 Cap Box:

Our standards. Made of bridle leather, dyed black, has a outer flap with latching tab, wool strip hand sewn to the back of the inner flap, cone pick loop, riveted brass finial, and two waistbelt loops which were hand sewn to the back of the cap box along with small copper rivet supports. Once again, the cap box should be entirely hand sewn. Shield front cap boxes are also acceptable. (EOG/US/202)

U.S. Pattern Bayonet Scabbard:

Our standards. Must be of U.S. Pattern, no British Enfield Scabbards allowed. We prefer either the early war, “Gaylord,” pattern two rivet sewn style, or the pattern 1863 seven rivet bayonet scabbard. These bayonet scabbards were made of black dyed bridle leather and featured attached frogs of either bridle or buff leather. All bayonet scabbards must have a secure brass tip. Once again, this item should be hand sewn. (EOG/US/202)

U.S. Pattern 1851 Haversack:

Our standards. Some basic features include machine sewn construction, black tarred exterior coating that seeps into the interior, cotton or linen inner bag attached by three hand sewn 5/8 inch tin buttons, hand sewn inner bag button holes, black 5/8 inch roller buckle, and a one piece shoulder strap of 40 to 45 inches in length.

Haversacks must ride at the small of the back, with the top of the haversack no lower than the waistbelt. To make adjustments, either cut and re-sew the strap or fold over the excess portion and re-sew using 100% cotton or linen black thread.

Remember, haversacks should only hold those items of your mess gear (tin cup, utensils, & plate) and your rations. They should not be the repository for your personal items or so called “haversack stuffers.” (EOG/US/210-211)

U.S. Pattern 1858 Smoothside Canteen:

A bit of history. The following canteen descriptions are from Robert A. Braun’s article, “The Federal Canteen,” found on the 33rd Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Website:

New York Depot
Pattern of 1858, with spout of white metal (not tin), occasionally mounted on the canteen with large spout "shoulder" reinforcement that bulged out from the canteen. Stopper secured with a jack chain, with hole punched in a tin strap keeper to hold the chain (only the New York Depot canteens had this chain attachment feature!) Covering of mostly coarse gray wool jean, (the logwood dye for the gray wool jean cover today oxidized to brown.) Many canteens had leather straps until Summer, 1862; thereafter folded cloth or linen straps, machine-sewn at the edges. The New York Depot had no manufacturing capability, thus received and shipped lots of canteens as "complete" from their contractors.

The canteens purchased by the New York Depot featured the jack chain to secure the stopper. ALL OTHER canteens of verifiable provenance have their stoppers secured with a simple cord or string. This means that, theoretically, ONLY the New York Depot canteens would have a hole punched into one of the tin strap keepers to secure the chain. Philadelphia Depot canteens (this includes all those Pattern of 1862 corrugated canteens) and Cincinnati Depot canteens would not have this hole.

Note: Since this article was written, Mr. Braun has new findings on the color of the camel brown canteen covers. The following correction is from Michael Thorson regarding these canteen covers:

Bob's article indicating that the New York Depot canteens originally had gray covers that oxidized to brown is dated. He agrees with Bill Brewster and his observations that the camel brown wool covers were in fact originally that color. Only logwood dyed wool would oxidize to a degree, and the mordant used determines the color upon oxidation. So... there are numerous brown covered canteens in the WVM that analysis revealed the color was originally brown. (E-mail letter, 2/23/00)

Our standards. Must be a U.S. Pattern 1858 Smoothside Canteen, with correct brownish/gray jean wool cover, pewter spout, jack chain (New York Depot only!) or string stopper attachment. If string is used, then the tin strap brackets should not have a punched in hole.

Leather slings are only acceptable for a 1861 & 1862 impression. Your best bet is to stick with the cloth straps.

The canteen must ride at the small of the back. Proper means of strap adjustment include cutting the strap and re-sewing it using 100% cotton or linen thread, or tying a knot in the strap. We have seen several original canteens at the Wisconsin Veterans Museum which feature canteen straps knotted once & in some cases twice. However, this style of adjustment is rather uncomfortable to wear with a knapsack. We prefer the cut & sew adjustment over the knotted adjustment, but both are acceptable. (EOG/US/206-207)

U.S. Pattern 1851 or 1855 Doublebag Knapsack:

Our standards. Hand or machine sewn linen body tarred black with a glossy appearance, black dyed shoulder straps, blackened buckles, hand sewn buckles & keepers, reinforcements of split leather, and overcoat straps. Wartime documented contract versions are also acceptable.

(EOG/US/212-213)

U.S. Issue Rubber Blanket or Poncho:

A bit of history. Here are the requisitions of the 2d Wisconsin from June 12-August 13, 1862 regarding equipage. The following table is from Howard Michael Madaus’ article, “The Uniform of the Iron Brigade at Gettysburg.” The table is entry 4381, Record Group No. 393, Pt. II, from the National Archives. This table appears as a footnote on page 357 of In the Bloody Railroad Cut at Gettysburg, by Lance J. Herdegen and William J.K. Beaudot.

June 12, 1862 July 3, 1862 July 11, 1862 August 13, 1862

Knapsacks 25 50 73 -

Haversacks 70 100 113 150

Canteens 51 100 57 150

Rubber Blankets - 75 2 -

Shelter Tents 24 100 88 -

Our standards. Rubber or Gum Blankets were the primary ground cloth of the infantry during the war. Made of rubber with a white linen backing, small brass grommets, with dimensions of 46” x 71”.

Ponchos were mainly used by the cavalry, but there are accounts of infantrymen using them. Ponchos have a reinforced slit in the middle of the spread, with a tin button closure. Same small brass 9/16 inch diameter grommets are also used. We will accept both, but the Rubber (or Gum) Blanket is the preferred choice. (EOG/US/215)

U.S. Issue Blanket:

Our standards. Must be of a documented pattern. Can be either the gray issue wool blanket with black woven end stripes & 4 to 4.5 inch US letters stitched in the middle of the blanket, or the brown issue blanket with woven brown end stripes & 4 to 4.5 inch US letters stitched in the middle of the blanket. Blankets should not have bound edges, if they do, they must be removed. All blankets should have a noticeable diagonal weave, especially visible in the end stripes. Dimensions should be close to 7 feet x 5 feet, six inches, weighting about five pounds.

Don’t try to go cheap when purchasing an issue blanket. You want something that will keep you warm, using only one blanket as allotted by the government. (EOG/US/214)

U.S. Issue Shelter Half:

Our standards. Shelter halves were generally made of 8 ounce cotton duck, with varying dimensions in the area of 66 inches long x 65 inches wide (original shelter halves did shrink quite a bit, so their is dimension differences between original shelter halves), had twenty three hand sewn bone or tin buttons & buttonholes of waxed cotton thread, and 8 hand sewn grommets holes (includes the guy rope and pole grommets). Shelter halves were not issued with brass grommets and machine-stitched buttons & buttonholes.

Shelter halves should have a guy rope of six-thread manila line that extends six feet, ten inches in length. The same manila line is also used for the tent stake loops. The shelter half may be made of early war three panel sections, or the later war two panel sections of cotton duck. Tabby weave and blue line canvas material is also acceptable if patterned after a documented original shelter half. It takes two shelter halves to make a shelter tent.

A. Tent Pegs: Tent pegs for the shelter half were issued by the Federal Army during the war. They were generally made of wood, with a curved top, which slimed down to a narrow point. Obviously these were lost during campaigning, but seemed to be a lightweight item that could be easily carried in a knapsack (Each soldier would carry two pegs for his shelter half).

We typically recommend using hard wood sticks as tent pegs. During an active campaign, soldiers would not have carried metal or iron tent stakes in their knapsacks. They are just too heavy to cart around.

For further information on shelter halves, please consult Tim Shaw’s article, “The Lowly Shelter Tent,” in Vol. 3, No. 2 issue of The Watchdog, and Patrick McDermott’s article, “A Survey of Civil War Shelter Halves,” in The Company Wag, a publication of The Mudsills, Inc., Vol. 1, No.2, (September, 1988). (EOG/US/214)

Rifle-Musket:

A bit of history. The following account is an ordnance summary from June 30, 1863 as documented by Howard Michael Madaus in his fine article, “The Uniform of the Iron Brigade at Gettysburg”:

Among the Wisconsin regiments, the eight reporting companies of the 2nd Wisconsin claimed two-hundred and sixty-seven Austrian “Lorenz” M1854 rifle-muskets in their original .54 caliber. (Companies E and H had failed to report their arms as of June 30.) These had replaced their sheet iron .69 caliber smoothbore altered percussion muskets during January of 1862. (363)

Our standards. Since there is not a dependable source for the Austrian “Lorenz” M1854, .54 caliber rifle-musket & replacement parts at this time, we have opted for some other commonly reproduced rifle-muskets during the war. We prefer the M1861 Springfield rifle-musket that the 6th Wisconsin carried, or the updated M1863 Springfield rifle-musket, or the Pattern 1853 Enfield rifle-musket. All muskets must have three-barrel bands, with exception to original & reproduction Austrian Lorenz M1854, .54 caliber rifle-muskets.

If the Enfield rifle-musket is purchased, the bluing should be removed. We also suggest that modern makers’ marks should be removed, and any necessary modifications be made to ensure the accuracy of your rifle-musket. (EOG/US/28-29, 36-37, 38-39, 40-41, 42-43)

Bayonet:

Our standards. You also need to purchase a corresponding pattern bayonet for your rifle-musket. Make sure it fits on your rifle-musket properly before purchasing. File off any modern markings.

Rifle-Musket Sling:

Our standards. Leather rifle-musket slings of documented patterns only. Here is a section from Geoff Walden’s article, “Sling, Arms!,” in Vol. 3, No. 3 issue of The Watchdog. It is a great description of what to look for in reproduction musket slings.

The US regulation sling was a leather strap, 46 inches long and 1 1/4 inch wide, with a captive loop at one end, and a brass hook at the other, and a sliding keeper between (US Ordnance Manual, 1861, p.228). The leather specified was “russet bag-leather,” which was a brown color, lighter weight leather. It was not the bright orange-red of most reproductions, but was a medium brown that darkened after it was oiled. Besides the color here are other things to look for (and avoid) on reproductions.

There should be no rivets, except those holding the hook on. The captive loop and the sliding keeper were sewn, not riveted. The hook should be a flat brass hook with a point, about 3/4-inch long. It should not be made of brass or iron wire. The end of the sling should be folded over & sewn, and the back of the hook should pass between these leather pieces, and be riveted with two small brass rivets. (6)

For further information on rifle-musket slings, please consult Geoff Walden’s article, “Sling, Arms!,” in Vol. 3, No. 3 issue of The Watchdog.

Mess Furniture:

Our standards. A soldiers mess items should consist of a tin cup or fruit can boiler, knife, fork, & spoon (or combination set), and a plate/canteen half.

A. Tin Cup: Made of tin, with proper lipped bottom, wire reinforced cup handle, cup size approximately 4x4 inches. No crimped bottom cups.

B. Fruit Can Boiler: An alternative to the tin cup, made of tin, with a lipped bottom, and a wire bail. No crimped bottoms or sides.

C. Knife: Plain wood or bone handles with straight steel blades.

D. Fork: Plain wood or bone handles with 2-4 steel tines.

E. Spoon: Made of stamped steel or iron, with a fiddle or oar shaped handle.

F. Combination Set: Must be of a documented pattern, with steel knife, fork, & spoon attachments.

G. Plate: Made of stamped or hot dipped tin, approximately 8.5 to 9.5 inches in diameter. No pie plates.

H. Canteen Half: An alternative to a plate, which can additionally function as a skillet.

Must be of tin, no stainless steel.

I. Skillet: An alternative to a canteen half. Must be made of thin sheet iron with thin riveted handles. They should also have a looped or hooked end at the tip of the handle. These will be closely inspected for accuracy. We only know of one merchant who makes an accurate reproduction. Once again, stick to the Suggested Uniform & Equipage List and you will do fine. A picture of a existing Civil War skillet can be seen in Time-Life Books, Echoes of Glory: Volume 1 - Arms & Equipment of the Confederacy, page 214.

(EOG/US/224-225)

Housewife:

Our standards: The sewing kit of the common soldier used during the Civil War. Generally homemade of cotton (shirting material), linen, wool, or silk, entirely hand sewn using cotton or linen thread; with compartments for thread, buttons, needles, and patching material. They should neatly roll up or fold, and be secured by two cloth ties or a hand sewn button.

Leather housewives are also acceptable, but should be patterned after a documented wartime article. May be either hand or machine sewn, with compartments for thread, buttons, needles, and patching material.

This is a very handy item for all to have in their kits. For further information on sewing kits commonly called housewives, please consult Erle H. Roberts’ article, “Sewing Kits of the Civil War,” contained in The Hardcracker Handbook. (EOG/US/222-223)

Additional Items (Not Required to Purchase)

Overcoat:

Our standards. Foot Pattern only. Some features include a greenish cast sky blue kersey wool with a diagonal weave, standing three inch collar, two sets of hooks and eyes, hand sewn button holes and buttons using dark blue or logwood faded (brown) cotton or linen thread, body lining of dark blue kersey wool or a light brown wool & cotton/linen mixed lining, sleeve lining of cotton muslin, cape with six 5/8 inch general service eagle buttons, front with five ¾ inch general service eagle buttons, back half belt with two ¾ inch general service eagle buttons attached, two piece cuffs, and a unhemmed skirt bottom. (EOG/US/128-129)

Vest:

Our standards. Must be well fitted, and constructed of documented materials. Either military or civilian patterns are acceptable. All buttonholes and buttons should be hand sewn, using cotton or linen thread. (EOG/US/121)

Leggings:

A bit of history. The Second Wisconsin was issued in early May of 1862, linen leggings by the order of Brigadier General John Gibbon. They were a rather disliked clothing article by many in the Black Hat Brigade during the summer of 1862. Here is a passage from William H. Harries, Company B, 2d Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment, describing his view of leggings. This passage is from Mr. Harries’ article, “In the Ranks at Antietam,” which is part of George H. Otis’ compilation, The Second Wisconsin Infantry.

General Gibbon tried at one time tried to make us wear leggings. They were troublesome to keep clean. The Virginia mud would cling to them with a tenacity that would make the soldiers swearing mad. One day just as we were starting out for brigade drill, as the general’s horse was brought out to him to mount it was found someone had enclosed his horse’s legs in the leggings. When the boys saw this they raised a great shout of laughter. Gibbon tried to find out who it was that played the trick but was unable to do so. (262)

According to quartermaster records, this was a one-time issue. By the fall of 1862, many of these items were in rather tattered shape. Only one known serviceable pair of leggings was able to last into 1863.

Our standards. Must be of the correct leather looped thong pattern, and made of white linen or canvas. No other patterns acceptable.

The leggings leather loops are attached to the inside of each legging. Each successive leather thong, beginning from the bottom, was looped through the upper one until the top of the leather strap.

Additionally, all leggings should have a correct buckle closure at the top leather strap, and a bottom leather strap, which passes underneath a soldier’s shoes and attaches via two copper rivets. Correct maker’s marks are also appropriate.

These will be severely inspected for accuracy. Only two merchants currently make an accurate pair of leggings for our impression. Stick to the Suggest Uniform & Equipage List and you will do fine.

The Citizens Guard will only wear leggings for a late spring-fall, 1862 impression. (EOG/US/190)

Forage Cap:

Our standards. U.S. Pattern 1858. Made of dark blue wool, with a polished cotton lining of black or dark brown, hand sewn sweatband, patent leather black brim, chin strap, and two 5/8 inch general service eagle buttons attached on each side of the chin strap. (EOG/US/120)

Personal Items:

Our standards. These items should generally be carried in a soldier’s pockets or knapsack. Some items are only appropriate for a camp impression. These should be rather limited in your kit.

A. Matches: Generally made out of pine, with red tips, and contained in period cardboard matchbox. Make sure label is of a documented manufacturer, and not a modern maker. Matches were issued to soldiers as well in attached strings or single sticks. (EOG/US/222)

B. Match Box: A private purchase item that some soldiers used to protect their matches

from getting damp and wet. Francis A. Lord, in his Civil War Collector’s Encyclopedia, states, “One of the author’s collection is of heavy tin, oval in shape, 3 ¼ inches long, 2 ¼ inches wide” (162). Look at antique stores for some plain tin matchboxes. Avoid most sutler row matchboxes, which contain modern markings and designs. (EOG/US/222)

C. Cotton Napkin: Another item from home or purchased privately. Made out of cotton (the same fabric as your civilian shirt), with two to three colored woven patterns such as small plaids, checks, & stripes. The woven patterns should be the same on the reverse side of the fabric. A simple ¼ inch overlapped hand sewn (whip stitched) border is an additional touch that will prevent fraying of the material. Approximate size should be around 24 x 24 inches. Period cotton towels of correct pattern and weave are also appropriate such as huck toweling.

Francis A. Lord, in his Civil War Collector’s Encyclopedia, states, “In the Ferris collection is a hand blocked cotton handkerchief (As we learned from William Brewster at the Wisconsin Veterans Museum, this is correctly called a napkin, not a handkerchief), carried in the war by Daniel Heyden, Co. E 149^th New York Infantry. The dominant color is red, with white circular designs spread throughout. The size is 25 by 22 inches” (119).

Modern red or blue bandannas popularly pushed off by sutlers as authentic must be avoided! Most of these contain modern printing labels and advertising by their manufacturer, which in no way resemble an article from the 1860’s. (EOG/US/223)

D. Pocket Watch: Key wind watches with relatively plain silver, silver alloy, or highly expensive gold watch covers and backings. Look for roman numerals. You can expect to pay quite a bit for an accurate Civil War timepiece. These will be closely inspected for accuracy. Watch chains seem to be rather rare, but most soldiers just used a piece of leather (shoelace), tied to their suspenders.

E. Pipes: Stick with simple pipes that an enlisted man of limited means would carry. These were commonly made of briar, clay, or wood with corresponding reed or wood stems. Period tobacco use only. Plain rolled cigars are also allowed, but absolutely no cigarettes. This is not negotiable. (EOG/US/222)

F. Toothbrush: Comprised of wood or bone handles with either horsehair or boars’ hair bristles commonly called “natural bristles.” Please remove any modern markings. Tooth powder or baking soda should only be used with your toothbrush. No modern toothpaste allowed. (EOG/US/223)

G. Wallet: A private purchase item that some soldiers used to organize any small bills that they had. They should be made out of leather, with hand-sewn compartments. Francis A. Lord, in his Civil War Collector’s Encyclopedia, states, “Most wallets were of brown leather, 4 to 4 ½ inches long and 2 ½ to 3 inches wide. Many have a wrap-around strap. In the author’s collection is a wallet of finely-tooled leather 7 ½ inches long and 3 5/8 inches wide. It belonged to Corporal H.V. Polley, 14^th New Jersey Volunteers. The excellent quality of Polley’s wallet is unusual. Moreover, its large size rendered it cumbersome to carry in the field” (332). (EOG/US/223)

H. Playing Cards: Playing card decks should be rather plain without numbers and plastic coatings. Can be either patriotic Union decks or standard decks with a flat finish.

(EOG/US/222)

I. Mirror: A small tin or wooden cased looking glass of approximately three inches in diameter. No modern markings allowed. (EOG/US/222)

J. Razor: Straight steel blades with bone or hard rubber handles. These can be found at antique stores. Once again, no modern markings allowed. (EOG/US/222)

K. Comb: Composed of wood, bone, or hard rubber. Hard rubber folding combs are easier to carry than straight wooden or bone combs. Once again, no modern markings allowed. (EOG/US/222-223)

L. Writing Tablet & Stationary: Plain white or yellowish paper bounded in a period covering such as leather or marble paperboard. Avoid modern bindings and markings. Stationary must be of documented design and construction. No modern stationary allowed. (EOG/US/222-223)

M. Pens, Ink, & Pencils: Pens should be rather plain with steel or wooden points. According to Vol. 1, No. 4 issue of The Watchdog, “Pens actually used during the war have straight, unpainted wooden shafts with metal fixtures on the business ends to accept nibs” (7). Ink should be black in color, and carried in a tin, glass, or wooden inkwell. Pencils should be plain, without modern markings and erasers.

(EOG/US/222-223)

N. Camp Furniture: Pull up a log boys or just simply sit on the ground like the original members of the Citizens Guard did. No folding camp chairs or straw bales allowed in camp. These post date the war. This is not negotiable.

Purchasing Tips

1. Do not purchase any item on your own! Each new Citizens Guard member will be paired with a member from the Authenticity Committee. The Authenticity Committee member will guide each new member through the ordering process to insure your getting the correct uniform & equipage. They will use the Suggested Uniform & Equipage List as the approved shopping list for the Citizens Guard.

2. Never, never, buy anything unless it is on the Suggested Uniform & Equipage List! Sutlers will try to sell you anything as being authentic. Be on guard, and resist the temptation to rush out and purchase your uniform. We have made numerous mistakes in the past, and do not want to see our new and established members fall down the same road we did. Remember, unacceptable uniform & equipage will be removed regardless of the expense. If you purchase a item from a non-approved merchant, you will have to replace it with an item that is from a approved merchant. Work with your assigned Authenticity Committee member to avoid such circumstances.

3. Do not assume since a merchant is listed as an approved source for one item, that they are approved in other areas. The Suggested Uniform & Equipage List details whom is approved for each uniform and equipage category. Stick to the list and you will do fine!

4. Since most of our merchants strive for the exact replication of their products to the original articles, waiting time for these items may be quite substantial. Be patient and plan your purchases way ahead of time. Your assigned Authenticity Committee member will aid in this area as well.

5. Above all, have fun and enjoy the experience of putting together your kit! We take pride in our impression and we hope you will too.

Purchasing Timeline

Preface: This is the typical order of uniform & equipage procurement for the Citizens Guard. It generally takes two years in order to put your kit together.

Minimum Uniform & Equipage:

(You will need these items in order to fall in with us at an event!)

Jefferson Bootees, Pattern 1858 Dress Hat, Fatigue Blouse, Sky Blue Kersey Trowsers, Spectacles (if necessary), Civilian Shirt, Suspenders, Wool Socks, Waist Belt, Canteen, Haversack, Mess Furniture.

Uniform & Equipage Highly Recommended:

(You will need these items in order to complete your kit!)

Cartridge Box, Cartridge Box Belt, Cap Box, Bayonet Scabbard, Rifle-Musket, Bayonet, Rifle-Musket Sling, Rubber Blanket, Wool Blanket, Knapsack, Drawers, Issue Shirt, Shelter Half,

Housewife, Uniform Coat, & Dark Blue Trowsers.

Additional Items:

Overcoat, Leggings, Forage Cap, Vest, & Personal Items.

Rations

A bit of history. Here is some great information on the rations issued to the Iron Brigade during 1863. The following passage is from the book, Echoes From the Marches of the Famous Iron Brigade:

Doc Aubrey has in his collection of war relics all the papers of the quartermaster of the Seventh Wisconsin regiment and a tabulated report shows that the Old Iron Brigade in 1863 used 1, 337 barrels of pork, 29, 694 pounds of bacon, 35, 593 pounds of ham, 528 pounds of fresh beef, 742 cattle slaughtered, 1, 748 barrels of flour, 487, 307 pounds of hard bread, 1, 764 pounds of cornmeal, 60, 820 pounds of beans, 9, 336 pounds of rice, 16, 420 pounds of dried apples, 884 pounds dried peaches, 55, 565 pounds of coffee, 715 pounds of tea, 124, 898 pounds of brown sugar, 917 pounds white sugar, 8, 659 pounds of candles, 18, 007 pounds of soap, 19, 672 pounds of salt, 571 pounds of pepper, 24, 241 gallons of vinegar, 1, 062 gallons of pickles, 232 cabbages, 458 gallons whisky, 2, 080 desiccated vegetables, 20, 436 pounds potatoes, 7, 962 onions, 3, 210 beets, 2, 782 turnips, 1, 158 pounds of carrots. The average number of men was 1, 863, a daily cost per man of 24 ½ cents. This included the feeding of the One Hundred and Sixty-seventh Pennsylvania militia, who were attached from July 17^th to Aug. 5^th. (51-52)

We also have a unique perspective on hard bread, commonly known as hardtack. On July 10, 1861, Charles C. Dow, Company G, 2d Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry wrote to his friend James from Arlington Heights, Virginia:

This hard bread is a great institution. You might soak a biscuit in a

cup of coffee six weeks, and then you would have a good set of teeth to

eat it. This kind of bread I suppose was made to keep. I think the maker

has got the receipt for making it, for I have not the least doubt but what it

would keep ten thousand years and then be as fresh as now. (136)

Our standards. Since we portray the Citizens Guard on active campaign, we try to limit our rations to those items issued on the march. This includes hardtack, coffee, brown sugar, salt pork or salt beef, fresh pork, bacon, ham, or fresh beef. When portraying a camp impression, we add apples, dried fruit, desiccated vegetables, onions, corn meal, rice, red potatoes, soft bread, tea, salt, sweet potatoes, soap, & candles. Also appropriate are foraging items as well as gifts from home. Stay away from non-period foods and modern canned food.

Rations must be packaged in a period way. This includes muslin or cotton ration bags, wrapping items in a period cloth (such as muslin) or plain brown paper, small glass bottles with cork stoppers, & in period cans. Avoid plastic at all costs!

During several times each year, we will institute a company wide ration issue. Contents of this ration issue will be based upon our impression, and the wishes & means of the membership.

Hardtack was the basic staple of the Federal infantryman during the war. We recommend that all members purchase hardtack from the vendor listed on the Suggested Uniform & Equipage List. Commercially made hardtack resembles the original item much better than homemade products.

For those who wish to make their own with a hardtack cutter (Village Tinsmithing Works sells them), here is a recipe that works fairly well. It resembles the original product, but it does not have the uniformity & consistency that commercially made hardtack does. Unfortunately for us, the only true way to make hardtack requires a special type of cracker flour.

Hardtack Recipe:

2 Cups Flour (Unbleached White Flour)

3/4 Cup Water

Mix ingredients and roll out dough six times to a thickness of 1/2 inch. You may have to add some flour or water to the mix while combining the ingredients. The mixture should be rather dry and not too sticky. Pre heat the oven to 350 degrees and prepare a greased cookie sheet. If you have a Hardtack Cutter, simply cut out the crackers and place them on the greased cookie sheet. Then bake these crackers for about 40 minutes or until they become slightly off white. Check them periodically while baking just to make sure your not burning them. These crackers should not be all light brown when finished baking. Let crackers air out for 12 to 24 hours until they harden. They may need some additional baking if the middle is still soft. If that is the case, just reheat them at 300 degrees for about 15 to 20 minutes and keep a close eye on them.

If you do not have a Hardtack Cutter: With a sharp knife and a ruler, cut out crackers to (3 x 3 inches) or (3 x 3 1/4 inches). Place 16 equal holes (Four Rows) into the crackers using a nail head. Proceed as above.

It may take you a couple of times in order to get the results you want. If all else fails, one can take heart in the following passage from Alan D. Gaff’s Book, Brave Men’s Tears:

The army stores were being removed, except for the immense quantities of food which could not be carried off. Pork and

hardtack were being burned by the wagonload to prevent it from

falling into enemy hands. (30)

Soap and candles were another important ration issue for the boys while in camp.

· Soap: Should be composed of lye, unscented, and in a rectangular shape.

· Candles: Since most candles issued to the Federal Army were composed of sperm oil (from whales), our search for an accurate candle is somewhat hampered. However, here are a few paraphrased tips to look for in reproduction candles from Nicky Hughes’ fine article, “If everyone lit just one little candle… Lighting for Civil War Reenactors,” located in Vol. 3, No. 2 issue of The Watchdog.

1. Look for dull white candles. Yellowish beeswax candles can pass as a gift from home or an item purchased from a sutler, but were not a Army issue item. Tallow candles were also used, but were not very common as a ration issue.

2. Look for candles that were made from molds, not by repeated dipping in hot liquid wax. This way your candles will have formed tips and relatively straight sides. (4-5)

First Person Impressions

Upon joining the Citizens Guard, all members are required to select a first person impression they would like to portray from the Citizens Guard. We will make allowances for those members who wish to depict their own relatives from the war. You will be addressed by your first person persona at all living histories & reenactments.

Concepts to remember when portraying a first person impression include: the soldier’s enlistment date, hometown, ethnicity, occupation, height, weight, hair & eye color, any wounds received during the war, and family background.

It is also important is remember that these men for the most part were all civilians before the war. Find out what public interests would be talked about during the 1860’s. Politics, local businesses, farming, hometown acquaintances, religion, social events, a letter from a family member, and care packages or gifts from home are just some topics to discuss with your mess mates.

We will help everyone in picking out and developing their first person impression. It is a great way to educate the public, and also helps to keep everyone in an 1860’s mindset throughout a living history or reenactment.

Drill

All members are expected to know and perform drill at designated times called for during a living history or reenactment. New members will have the opportunity to work with an assigned corporal to work on the “School of the Soldier,” and Guard Mount.

We will help all new and existing members to become proficient in drill. This includes the School of the Soldier, School of the Company, School of the Battalion, Guard Mount, and Bayonet Exercise.

The Citizens Guard takes pride in our ability to drill, and strives continually to become more proficient at this required duty.

We primarily consult the following two manuals for drill:

1. D. W. Baxter’s Volunteer’s Manual

2. Casey’s Tactics

We additionally consult:

1. George B. McClellan’s Manual of Bayonet Exercise

2. Dominic J. Dal Bello’s Parade, Inspection and Basic Evolutions of the Infantry Battalion, 4^th Edition.

3. Dominic J. Dal Bello’s Instructions for Guards & Pickets, 2^nd Edition.

4. United States Infantry Tactics

5. August V. Kautz’s Customs of Service

For further information on the tactics used by the Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment, please consult Michael Thorson’s excellent article, “The Manual of Arms of the 2nd Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry,” located at the 33rd Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Website.